River Trekking in Cebu

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Cebu is where you gain the license to binge on both chicharon and lechon every single day. But it is also a lot more than that. It has Sinulog. It has Sumilon, Bantayan, Malapascua, and Camotes. It has migratory birds in Olango and whalesharks in Oslob. Heck, it has Lapu-Lapu, both the man and the fish.

But there’s also one other thing that Cebu has, and it’s right in its capital: Cebu City has rivers you can trek to or else traverse on horseback. It has hills high enough for a zipline. It also has limestone caves to explore. In short, Cebu has adventure. For this entry, let me take you river trekking.

River Trekking
Location: Masaba River, Sitio Masaba, Barangay Tagba-o, Cebu City

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How do you trek a river? Do you trek on it, in it, through it? Apparently you would have to walk through shallow streams and pebbles first, make your way around bigger rocks and considerably more water next, and then finally try not to die as you hop from one 10-meter boulder to another. At this point, the waters flowing between the boulders have become too strong it could carry you away to oblivion with a single misstep.

That’s exactly what we did during the trek through the Masaba River, located deep within forested area somewhere in the mountains of Cebu City (as its Vice Mayor had informed us the day before, Cebu City is 70% mountains, thus these outdoor activities). The 45-minute one-way trek was no easy feat, but it took me a pair of trusty Hello Kitty Crocs to survive it (I didn’t come prepared. I was also wearing the kind of shorts you wear to the mall).

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The calm before the storm: (L) Walking the short distance from the drop-off point to the river; (R) The bridge, below which is the starting point of the trek

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(L) Walking the remaining distance leading to the waters (R) Being briefed by our leader Joel

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We had to cross this part to get to the other side

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Crossing entailed this one

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Kuya Bogart, our other guide, showing us what we’re up against

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The so-called Big Wall—a limestone formation that would also mark the start of the real trek

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Beyond the Big Wall, rocks began getting bigger—

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—and the waters getting nastier

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Stopping to rest under another limestone formation (that’s AsianTraveler’s Assoc Ed Jen Balboa on the left and me on the right. Photo by our guide Kuya Bogart—the guy with the blue backpack on the rightmost photo)

But surprisingly, I enjoyed it, even when I had to trail behind the group so I could take photos of them while trying to balance myself (plus another camera and a tripod) on top of a boulder.

It wasn’t as simple as it looked at all. I was doing the trek for an AsianTraveler assignment, and since I had to take photos, I had to risk life and limb to do three things all at the same time: take as much photos, keep my gadgets dry, and keep myself alive (how exactly I managed to do that is beyond my understanding).

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(L) I had to tie pigtails to each of my feet so the water won’t carry my shoes away. I was ill-prepared just like that. (R) I had to go down that rock and into where the other two were standing at the farther end. In hindsight, this photo makes me swell with pride. LOL

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I had to climb this last!

There’s a waterfall at the end of the trek, although I’ve seen more gorgeous cascades elsewhere. Still, in this case, the destination didn’t matter as much as the journey.

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Final leg of the trek, until we finally reached (R) the rather small waterfall.

Tips for those who want to try (trust me, it’s worth it!):

1. Never go unguided unless you’re Superman, in which case this activity isn’t challenging enough.

Once you’re at the river, you would have nothing else to step on except boulders and the waters. The river is surrounded by towering slopes, so unless you have the uncanny ability to swing between vines or fly, you’re stuck to the boulders.

Water could be anywhere between ankle-deep to way past your height. Factor in the current, and the fact that you’re in the middle of the forest without a mobile phone signal, and your chances of getting on that impulsive solo adventure go down to nil. Go with experienced hikers, including those who know their first aid.

2. Be in full battle gear.

I could not emphasize this enough, because once you’re there, you’re going to be at the mercy of nature. Always wear your helmets and PFDs, if not for your sake then for your mother’s peace of mind.

If I weren’t wearing mine, I would have gone home with a swollen head and a broken hip (come to think about it, I’d be lucky enough to go home at all if that was the case). On the way back, the strong current carried me down a very steep slope of rocks, and I landed head-first on another bed of rocks before hitting my hip against the river bed. If not for my skilled guide who managed to pull me to a more placid part, I would have gone further down the river.

Invest in a good pair of trekking shoes too, as running shoes will be no good. From my experience though, a pair of Crocs could satisfactorily live up to the challenge as well. It had a fantastic grip on the rocks, plus it’s as waterproof as you could possibly hope for, so you won’t have to worry about drying it up after.

Get a drybag to keep your things dry as well. I got a 20-liter bag after this trek (before this, I didn’t know what a drybag was and what it did, let alone how to seal it). And though it’s such a pain to use, it has never left my backpack ever since.

3. Trek towards the summer months.

Water will obviously be less manageable when you trek around this time, but January to May should be ideal (we did ours in February).

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I don’t normally indulge in photos like this, but for this kind of achievement, I had to. :P

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This pair has been through a lot, including endless kilometers of concrete during festivals and the very dusty 70 kilometers from Coron to Calauit.

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Heading back up at last!

Our trek was organized by Adventyurista Concepts & Solutions. They could provide you with trained guides, gear, as well as transportation to any of the outdoor tourism sites identified under the Adventure Cebu tourism program of the city government. You may find them on Facebook or contact them through the following:

Adventyurista Concepts & Services
Tel. No.: +63 929 777 9574 /
+63 922 825 5332
Email: adventyurista@yahoo.com
Website: www.adventyurista.tk

The Cebu City Tourism website also lists other suppliers here.

Adventure Cebu Map [in rectangle is the Masaba River in Bgy. Tagba-o where we did the trek]:

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Click here for the original map from Cebu City Tourism office.

You may visit the Cebu City Tourism Website for more info.

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This is my entry to Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ September Blog Carnival: The Visayas Roundup (my first entry to the carnival too!).

This month’s carnival is hosted by Ding Fuellos of The Pinoy Explorer:

 

The Pinoy Explorer - The Visayas Roundup

 

Click here to view past PTB Blog Carnivals:

 

Pinoy Travel Bloggers Blog Carnival

 

Cebu City’s Hotel Elizabeth

While on assignment for AsianTraveler Magazine in Cebu, we stayed at Hotel Elizabeth along Archbishop Reyes Avenue. But since our itinerary brought us to the highlands of the city, we were only able to sleep here on our first and last nights.

Like its sister hotel in Baguio, this one in Cebu—designed by Tessa Prieto-Valdes—has a cozy-clean vibe and is laden with murals and photos of Europe, from Santorini to The Colosseum.

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Lavish details at the hotel lobby

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Bedroom at the Junior Suite, which also has a living area, office, and kitchen

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11th floor lobby

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Junior Suite still

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Deluxe double room where we stayed

You can’t ask for a better location as well—Ayala Center Cebu is right on the next block (or is it one block away?), near enough to go to by foot. More importantly, it’s right within the delivery area of Handuraw, that Cebuano pizza house I always try to visit whenever I am in Cebu.

Flora Cafe, the hotel’s restaurant, turned out to be our happy place. The hotel staff deserve special mention as they were ever kind and courteous to two ladies who barged in at 9 PM to have dinner until well past 11. As I always do whenever I am overcome by hunger and exhaustion, I order more than is sane considering I was going to sleep less than two hours after. In this case, it was the Mixed Seafood Delight that came in a surprisingly generous serving (or is it not meant for just one?). Two hours after, I managed to clamber out of the thick sauce, clams, and prawns alive and happy. I had ordered a blueberry cheesecake for good measure, but I had to take it up to my room to mull over the whole night because I was already too full.

Before this, on our first day, I remember ordering a tiger prawn dish that was also unbelievably big (work meant we had to rush, so no photos for posterity for this dish). Since I obviously love my seafood, anywhere that knows its seafood well deserves another visit if the wind ever blows me to Cebu another time.

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Flora Cafe

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Flora Cafe

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Seafood Kebab

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Mixed Seafood Delight

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Blueberry cheesecake

Hotel Elizabeth is located along Archbishop Reyes Avenue, Cebu City. This is not a sponsored post.


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Instagrammin’ Cebu

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Apparently even third visits to a place aren’t even enough to take in everything it has to offer, especially when we’re talking about Cebu, a place so big you’d need roughly three days to circle the mainland by car, at least that’s what a local told me during one of my earlier visits.

That wasn’t about to happen yet though, since this time I came with my mom and sister Erika, who was resolute on doing only two things during our trip: have buffet and buy a guitar.

She got more than that, of course, including all the Carcar chicharon she could eat, and an impromptu sidetrip to Bohol just because her big sister didn’t really have anything planned out. And oh, it was her first time on a plane as well–something we’d all love to spoil our little siblings with, if only to convince them we want that last slice of pizza too.

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Waiting for our flight, which thankfully came.

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Just what we needed: an umbrella to welcome us under the sun.

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The Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral, and two minutes away are the Sto. Nino Basilica and Magellan’s Cross.


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Carcar chicharon being sold beside the Sto Nino Basilica. We bought loads of these since our youngest companion couldn’t get enough of them.

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Mama and Erika buying candles from two elderly ladies in front of the basilica.

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A sidestreet we passed by while in the cab.


Lunch buffet at Marco Polo Cebu. Kiddo went gaga over the food. And good riddance she ate at half off.


Tarts I can’t remember I ate.

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Souvenir necklaces for P10 each at the Lapu-Lapu shrine

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Mangroves opposite the shrine.

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Guitars for sale are everywhere in Lapu Lapu.

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Little girl having fun under the unbearable sun.


This is me, duh.

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Erika, her P500-ukelele, and the beanbag she wanted to take home

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Zubuchon’s Grape (above) and Kamias (below) shake. Surprisingly refreshing, especially the Kamias–something the chain is rather well known for. This branch is at the lobby of the hotel where we stayed.


Zubuchon’s biko: sweet & hot, it goes extremely well with kamias shake.

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Zubuchon lechon. I’ve read somewhere online that Zubuchon lechon isn’t ‘really’ Cebu lechon. That aside, this one tasted really good–far better than our first encounter during Sinulog. Definitely worth a second try, and maybe even a third one.


For now kiddo says goodbye :D

Heading to Cebu as well? Check these out:

All the way to Cebu’s Tops on two wheels

Experiencing the many faces of Sinulog

Two2Travel: Cebu!

Two2Travel: Life’s a Beach Part 3: Bantayan Island, Cebu

Boutique on a budget: Islands Stay Hotels, Cebu

The budget hotel is fittingly the center of the whole budget travel universe. It is, at least, in mine. Compared with food, a place to stay the night is a lot less flexible and is therefore a bigger concern for me than the day’s next meal.

And then there’s also the boutique hotel—a league entirely its own—with its specialized design concepts aiming to appeal to those who cannot quite afford the Marriotts and the Marco Polos. Coming at slightly lower prices than five-stars, however, most boutiques today aren’t even on my list (P3,500 per night is already ostentatious in my books, and will buy me three medium-sized drybags or an underwater camera case instead).

But who says good things don’t come to cheapskates such as myself?

Call me easy to please, but this hotel isn’t only affordable; it also looks way cooler than other wannabes offering the same rates.


And it isn’t even trying too hard. The concept behind Cebu-based Islands Stay Hotels is so simple and straightforward you’d wonder why there are a few of it around.


Done in a modern and refreshing white-orange-apple green palette, Islands demands an average of P800 per person per night.* While this isn’t exactly dirt cheap (dirt cheap is around P300 for dorm-type accommodations), it nevertheless gives great value for money.


There are no swimming pools, spas, gyms, and all other excesses guests rarely use but end up paying for anyway in other hotels. There is no buffet breakfast either, though the Mactan branch where we stayed did have a famous Cebu chain serving lechon (the province’s popular roast suckling pig) as early as 9 AM.


The modern amenities are basic but far from bare. Roomy and airy, the Large room we stayed at could comfortably accommodate four people. Electric outlets are everywhere (we all hate hotels that don’t let us plug in, don’t we?), and you won’t be bothered by the absence of running water or hot and cold shower either.


Most hotels commanding similar prices make you feel you’re cheap because you can afford only their drab rooms. And this is exactly what I love about the Islands concept: it’s a close call to boutique accommodations without the hefty price tag, upping the ante for value hotels. It’s showing its competitors that a little bit of imagination goes a long way—and that potential guests do notice.

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*Small rooms go for P850 for a single occupant, while Large rooms are priced at P1650 for every two occupants, with P300 on top for every extra person. Children 12 and below stay for free. Bookings made a month before get 15 percent slashed from published rates.

Islands has two branches in Cebu—one in Mactan, a stone’s throw from the airport; and another in downtown Cebu, just across Ayala Center.


Islands Stay Hotels
www.islandsstay.com
This is not a sponsored post.

Cebu goes adventurous (AsianTraveler magazine)

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Cebu goes adventurous: Words by Jen Balboa, Photos by Nikka Corsino

Aside from being the oldest city in the Philippines, Cebu is also the seat of Catholicism and the widely recognized hub of the Visayas group of islands. But up in the hills of Cebu–still within the city–one can explore yet another side of it that’s so unlike the beaches and religious processions it is known for.

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Experiencing the many faces of Sinulog

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Finally, the Sinulog mystery dispelled.

This is the longest festival parade I’ve been to, and most probably the longest in the country as well: non-stop street dances for at least 10 hours, the largest crowd I’ve ever seen in a single day, and perhaps the longest parade route I have ever walked.

No wonder this festival, taking place every second weekend of January, enjoys the reputation as the grandest in the Philippines (and that’s saying something since this country knows its festivals really well, with every major region having its own version of yearly street dances and parades).

As in any local festival, Sinulog draws its pomp and color from the many groups attending the competition every year. Some come from all over Cebu province; others as far as Negros and Panay islands.

All the activity lasts way past midnight following the carousel parade. Cebu is well known for its street party, running the whole stretch of Fuente Osmena (which locals simply refer to as Fuente). Elsewhere in the city, people celebrated their own way. Not far from our street, way before dark, men had positioned cases and cases of beer right in the middle of the street, a huge ice box on the side, and begun what surely was their own version of street partying till the wee hours of the morning. My phone was also abuzz with Sinulog revelry, thanks to the nifty little social network called Twitter.

But this merrymaking is just one of Sinulog’s many faces. Religious in nature like most other festivals, its central figure is the Sto. Nino (the Child Jesus), an image of which is paraded down during the Sinulog Carousel Parade by a so-called Festival Queen, which leads every contingent in the parade. This Festival Queen represents Reyna Juana (Queen Juana), the leader of the locals when Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan set foot in the archipelago for the first time. Juana is also the first baptized Catholic, making Cebu City the long-standing seat of Catholicism in the entire country.

The day before this parade, devotees from all over the Philippines flock to the Basilica Minore del Sto. Nino in downtown Cebu where the annual grand procession takes place. The number of people attending this never fails to surpass the million mark–this year, reports said crowds reached 3 million. Elsewhere in the country, only Quiapo’s Black Nazarene procession rivals this devotee crowd.

Everywhere we went there was something going on–and rightfully so in one of the Philippines’ most vibrant cities. I love Cebu!

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This entry is part of my 12 Days in the Visayas series.

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All the way to Cebu’s Tops on two wheels

I was suprised and terrified to find out there was no other way we could reach Cebu’s Tops than by hitching on a motorcycle.

See, the last time I rode a motorcycle was years ago, with my brother as the driver, in a very long two-minute ride which made my longest five minutes in Davao look like a walk in the park.

Not having learned to balance myself in anything with two wheels until last week—another story altogether—I did not find motorcycles the best means of transportation. It does not help either that these vehicles enjoy a notoriety for being the choice of paid murderers.

Thankfully, our driver for that day—one of many awaiting potential passengers at Cebu’s JY Square in Lahug—looked nothing like a murderer. And since we were a pair of small people on backpacks, we did not find it difficult to squeeze ourselves on the motorcycle either.

So on we went, away from the town and into slopes. We passed by what looked familiarly like the way up to Baguio, which I’ve been seeing the last four years on an almost weekly basis. But being a wrong swerve away from death—or on a more positive note, being more ‘in touch’ with the road and the air (too cold!)—had felt completely different. For one, I could never sleep on the way, or read, or take a picture as I was too scared to let my camera out. I was, however, able to tweet. Ah, priorities.

DSC_7887 Our driver, Mang Junior, treaded curves and slopes pretty well, not knowing it was his companions’ first time to ever ride this kind of vehicle together.

Until a few days after that—which I’m reserving for another post—this has been the longest leisurely motorcycle ride I took. And I had in fact enjoyed it, forgetting until the last few minutes of the uphill ride that we were on a motorcycle and I could simply die a brutal death by falling on a cliff.

DSC_7895 ‘Course we did.

I’m glad we visited during the day, though, as it can be a totally different matter when you do the roundtrip at night—supposedly the best time to go to Tops, which lets you see the whole of Cebu bathed in light. I’m glad Baguio continues to spoil me with similar everyday sights, otherwise I would have simply regretted not visiting at nightfall.

Tops, we soon saw, was no more than a viewdeck with ample space for vanity souvenir shots, group or otherwise.

DSC_7900 Surviving half of an uphill motorcycle ride and living to tell the tale. Photo taken by Owen Ballesteros.

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DSC_7913 Owen and I and the photogenic ground.

DSC_7929 Here goes the only other thing you can do there (aside from eat and take photos): ring a bell. According to the directions, you ring the bell once for ‘firm partnership,’ twice for ‘lasting friendship,’ and thrice for ‘never-ending love.’ You’re also supposed to hold hands with your friends and/or partner when doing this… (or maybe I should just shut up). Photo by Owen Ballesteros

DSC_7931Cebu City and Mactan Island as seen from Tops during our visit. It was hazy, so I converted this photo to black and white. Photo taken by Owen Ballesteros.

DSC_5845View from the Tops at night, taken by Owen Ballesteros when he visited Cebu last year.

Tables and chairs are also available on its tunnel-like main building, though the food available makes bus station food outlets look like fine dining restaurants—chips, soda, and beer, definitely not enough to last you long in this place (unless you bring some). Considering it doesn’t offer anything else, and doesn’t even give you good food to stay long, I did not find it worth the P100 entrance fee per person.

DSC_5840 On the right side of this rather ingeniously designed area are tables and chairs. Great if you’re coming with a big group, otherwise you can’t sleep there. Photo taken by Owen Ballesteros during an earlier visit to Cebu.

If I did not find the motorcycle ride enjoyable for its sheer novelty, I would not recommend this to others looking for a unique Cebu experience. We spotted at least two zipline spots on the way, though, and figured that was the better way to experience the place’s elevation, its main selling point. Imagine ziplining overlooking the whole of Cebu. Then again, that’s just me thinking out loud.

Expenses: P600 for 2 people
P75 per person per way for the motorcycle ride (P300)
P100 for every hour the driver waits for you (P100)
P100 per person entrance fee to Tops (P200)

Worth it? I’d say I’ll just charge it to experience.

*To get there, ride the 04H jeepney (or others just as long as they’re passing by JY Square). This is a mall where men on motorcycles wait for passengers going to Tops. If you look touristy enough, you won’t even have to ask around; they will find you. :) Aside from private vehicles, only motorcycles go all the way up (no jeepneys). We passed by at least two restaurants on the way up so you might want to drop by there for lunch or dinner, or you can always wait for my next post on where we ate for lunch that day.

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This entry is part of my 12 Days in the Visayas series.

12daysvisayas