Travel Snaps: Calaguas, Camarines Norte, Philippines

I’ve always wanted to go to Calaguas in the Bicol Region, but the distance has always been an issue—21 hours by land, from Baguio where I’m based, all the way to Paracale in Camarines Norte, plus another 2 hours by boat, all one way.

Interestingly, it has all come together in April this year with a group of friends I haven’t seen since college graduation.

We spent two nights under the stars, three days swimming in its crystal clear waters, and all our waking hours catching up on the past three years.

I’m still trying hard to process everything as I had just come from more than 24 hours of land travel, but I hope these photos will give justice to the place’s beauty for now.

Hands down—Calaguas is one of the best beaches I’ve been to.

All photos taken with Instagram. Follow me: @nikkacorsino

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Calaguas Island is an unspoilt beach free of hotels, electricity, and all the usual comforts of commercialized island destinations. Let us keep Calaguas that way.

Boutique on a budget: Islands Stay Hotels, Cebu

The budget hotel is fittingly the center of the whole budget travel universe. It is, at least, in mine. Compared with food, a place to stay the night is a lot less flexible and is therefore a bigger concern for me than the day’s next meal.

And then there’s also the boutique hotel—a league entirely its own—with its specialized design concepts aiming to appeal to those who cannot quite afford the Marriotts and the Marco Polos. Coming at slightly lower prices than five-stars, however, most boutiques today aren’t even on my list (P3,500 per night is already ostentatious in my books, and will buy me three medium-sized drybags or an underwater camera case instead).

But who says good things don’t come to cheapskates such as myself?

Call me easy to please, but this hotel isn’t only affordable; it also looks way cooler than other wannabes offering the same rates.


And it isn’t even trying too hard. The concept behind Cebu-based Islands Stay Hotels is so simple and straightforward you’d wonder why there are a few of it around.


Done in a modern and refreshing white-orange-apple green palette, Islands demands an average of P800 per person per night.* While this isn’t exactly dirt cheap (dirt cheap is around P300 for dorm-type accommodations), it nevertheless gives great value for money.


There are no swimming pools, spas, gyms, and all other excesses guests rarely use but end up paying for anyway in other hotels. There is no buffet breakfast either, though the Mactan branch where we stayed did have a famous Cebu chain serving lechon (the province’s popular roast suckling pig) as early as 9 AM.


The modern amenities are basic but far from bare. Roomy and airy, the Large room we stayed at could comfortably accommodate four people. Electric outlets are everywhere (we all hate hotels that don’t let us plug in, don’t we?), and you won’t be bothered by the absence of running water or hot and cold shower either.


Most hotels commanding similar prices make you feel you’re cheap because you can afford only their drab rooms. And this is exactly what I love about the Islands concept: it’s a close call to boutique accommodations without the hefty price tag, upping the ante for value hotels. It’s showing its competitors that a little bit of imagination goes a long way—and that potential guests do notice.

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*Small rooms go for P850 for a single occupant, while Large rooms are priced at P1650 for every two occupants, with P300 on top for every extra person. Children 12 and below stay for free. Bookings made a month before get 15 percent slashed from published rates.

Islands has two branches in Cebu—one in Mactan, a stone’s throw from the airport; and another in downtown Cebu, just across Ayala Center.


Islands Stay Hotels
www.islandsstay.com
This is not a sponsored post.

A different kind of Boracay at Mandala

Looking back at my first time in Boracay, the Philippines’ dame of all beaches and catwalk of people with impossibly toned abs, I consider myself lucky to not have arrived along with everyone else. And when I mean everyone, I mean the annual Holy Week crowd that, surprisingly, isn’t causing the tiny island to sink yet.

It was July, and the weather wasn’t the prettiest (the sun managed to peek on our last day though). I thought it better that I was there for work, which meant that it was fine to miss everything else Boracay had to offer.

Which was all good with me. We were there a short three days and two nights, and as in every other magazine work I had done, this included a mad dash all the way from Baguio to Manila, and a seven-hour date with a freezing cold bus. Since we had landed in Kalibo, this also meant another two hours on the road before we could finally hop on a boat to the island and (gasp!) start working.

This was why thrilled though I was at finally dispelling the Boracay mystery–something Filipinos feel is their life’s duty–I was overtaken by fatigue at what I had gone through and what still lay ahead.

Which brings me to this wonder of a place I would want to return to Boracay for, if only I had the money to stay at it again.

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The entrance to Mandala Spa and Villas, if not for the huge sign bearing its name, would have been easily mistaken as a well fenced house complete with thick overgrowth on its iron gates. Apart from the concrete uphill pathway, you couldn’t make out a thing about how this place looks like from the outside.

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Every visit to this place, I would soon find out, would take an incredible amount of what I’d call healthy disposition. Or as its manager Jove Schrottman would put it, a decision to be healthy (Dieter Schrottman, Jove’s father, is the destination spa’s founder).

You can take it from the food it serves: a lean but healthy selection that’s a break from the usual hotel breakfast buffets.

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Mandala started as a day spa, but now the sprawling property on top of a hill has 12 villas–8 of which are laid out on a circle, just as a mandala is; and the other four located somewhere farther up the hill, overlooking the sea. So it’s a day spa with a villa where you can stay the night (or nights, depending on how well you can afford its roughly P10,000-a-night price tag).

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So this is how it feels to have that much cash to burn for peace of mind, well-being, or just about any other purpose you might have for choosing to stay in this place: an airconditioned bungalow all to yourself, done on soothing earth tones, with the air peppered with aromatic oils, as if inducing you to sleep the minute you step in.

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You have a king-sized four-poster on your right, the headboard made of capiz shells, the sheets an immaculate white, and the cushions the softest I’ve slept in so far (and I’m not even trying to patronize here).

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One side of the room opens up to a tiny verandah overlooking your very own pocket garden (each villa is separated from the other by tall bamboo fences), while an all-glass hall opposite the bed leads to a bathroom with custom-made Italian fixtures (even the tub bears the name Mandala). And still, another door leads to an open-air rainshower.

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The room also comes with a nifty iPod injected with relaxing music, some of which by Dan Gibson of the Solitudes album series–a nice, subtle tech touch which the younger Schrottman had espoused. You can also stay wired with the in-room WiFi and, should staycation tire you, a cable television is willing to compensate for lack of entertainment (but I’m sure you’re not going to do that).

With a room like that, it’s effortless to convince your mind to trail off into nothingness any time of the day. It’s in fact one of the few resorts I’ve been to which made me feel like the prospect of leaving for White Beach was a tremendous deviation, even in Boracay.

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And then of course there’s the spa.

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It’s what Mandala is all about–being healthy, staying healthy. The Universe wouldn’t have given me the best time to have my first spa treatment: I was dog-tired from all the traveling I did the whole day, my head was throbbing from pain, and I was more than happy to just sleep in my room. Two hours into their hilot massage, thankfully, didn’t feel like work at all (even if I had to take mental notes during the whole treatment). Taking cue from traditional Filipino healing techniques from head to foot, the hilot massage, from its name, is designed to repair the body and bring it back to a sense of balance. The treatment consisted of three techniques: the hihilaan, hilot, and dagdagay.

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In the hihilaan, banana leaves heated in extra virgin coconut oil were placed on my back, supposedly to identify areas of heat imbalance. This was followed by the ventosa vacuum cupping technique to restore balance in body heat, and then by traditional hilot strokes all over the body.

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The foot massage called dagdagay capped the treatment using a pair of bamboo sticks applied on the soles of the feet and is intended to revitalize the immune system. In simpler terms, that two-hour massage was pure goodness from head to foot, and since it was already evening when we finished, it made sleep such a pleasant retirement prospect.

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Mandala Spa & Villas is located in Station 3, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan
www.mandalaspa.com

All photos found in this post are by Owen Ballesteros.

This is not a sponsored post. My stay at Mandala Spa & Villas was made possible through a travel assignment by AsianTraveler magazine Philippines. My work was later published on its Cosmopolitan Sanctuaries issue in 2011.

Travel Snap: Capones Lighthouse, Zambales 2.0

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The Capones Lighthouse is the second lighthouse I’ve climbed, the first one being Cape Bojeador in Ilocos Norte five years ago.

This one in Capones Island began guiding ships going to and from Subic Bay–one of the Philippines’ busiest ports–in 1890. Today, the tower is powered by solar cells. Its keeper’s house having fallen into disrepair, the lighthouse stands in the middle of grassland overlooking the West Philippine Sea.

The view of the West Philippine Sea is breathtaking–well worth the series of climbs through rickety stairs and ladders you’ll have to take to get to the viewdeck.

You can reach the Capones Lighthouse via two entry points: the eastern side (where patches of beach are located; from which the lighthouse is an hour’s trek away), or the western side (a smaller, rougher, and yet nearer entry point; the shore littered with rocks; the waves violent especially towards the afternoon; but a quick 10-minute hike away from the lighthouse).

To get to Capones Island (as well as others such as Nagsasa and Anawangin Coves), you’ll have to follow any of these routes depending on your place of origin (I’m including Baguio and Ilocos since I’m shuffling between them):

A. Via Manila-Olongapo bus: Manila> Olongapo> San Antonio> Pundaquit> Capones/Nagsasa/Anawangin
B. Via Manila-Iba bus: Manila> San Antonio> Pundaquit> Capones/Nagsasa> Anawangin
C. Via Baguio-Olongapo bus: Baguio> Olongapo> San Antonio> Pundaquit> Capones/Nagsasa/Anawangin
D. Via Ilocos Sur/Norte/La Union-Pasay/Cubao bus: Ilocos Norte/Sur/La Union> Dau> Olongapo> San Antonio> Pundaquit> Capones/Nagsasa/Anawangin

More from my Zambales trip:
Capones Lighthouse, Zambales 1.0
Nagsasa Cove, Zambales, Philippines
Anawangin Cove, Zambales, Philippines


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Travel snap: Anawangin Cove, Zambales, Philippines

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A boatman returns to Pundaquit after dropping off tourists to Anawangin Cove, a popular camping site in Zambales province, Philippines, which draws tourists particularly during the long Holy Week break. Around 40 minutes by sea from Pundaquit village, Anawangin is a picturesque cove developed over the years to host tourists who want to rough it up in this electricity- and mobile phone signal-free spot. It has also given birth to a thriving income source for the locals, who ferry tourists to and from the cove at about P1,500.

Travel Snap: Nagsasa Cove, Zambales, Philippines

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Photo taken at Nagsasa Cove off the west coast of Zambales province, Philippines. Nagsasa is a two-hour boat ride from Pundaquit village in Zambales’ San Antonio town. Previously less popular than nearby Anawangin Cove, Nagsasa features a bigger beach area that’s more conducive for swimming, albeit its camping area is smaller and its facilities are in need of major improvement. Unlike all other beaches in the Philippines, those in Zambales feature postcard-perfect mountains giving way to the beach, and the only way to enjoy them is to go camping (no hotels, electricity, and mobile phone signal). These unique features–plus the fact that it’s a short 3-hour travel by land from the Philippine capital Manila–make Zambales’ beaches an ideal beach weekend getaway.

Travel Snap: Capones Lighthouse, Zambales

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I and some friends just got back from a lengthy 3-day-2-night Holy Week camping in Zambales, along the Western coast of Luzon–lengthy because, with the absence of electricity and cellphone signal, we found ourselves going back to the very basics–cooking and eating, walking and swimming, and taking photos in between.

Photo shows our third and last stop, the fabled Capones Lighthouse in Capones Island. It’s a rather rough 35-minute boat ride from Barangay Pundakit, the drop-off point for boat rides to Anawangin Cove, Nagsasa Cove, and other popular beach hangouts in Zambales.

A favorite spot among landscapists, Capones is like a long-forgotten fortress that has nothing of the camping areas that other islands nearby have. This mystique is overshadowed, however, by the sheer postcard perfection of the whitewashed lighthouse and the view of the South China Sea beyond.

 

Photo taken with Instagram (follow me: @nikkacorsino)